Cable Lock

This is a cable-lock I made, about 12 feet long. It is just 3/16" coated steel cable from the hardware store, with crimp ferrules, and a big steel ring in one end. The ferrules fit through the scupper holes on the boat, but the steel ring does not. Together with any padlock, this will secure the boat (or several) to your truck, roof rack, a tree, or anything else that is handy. You can take this cable with you, it will give you peace of mind if you leave the boat unattended to go exploring on land.

The object is not to stop a determined thief - you can't do that. It is to stop someone from casually taking your boat with their bare hands. Don't lock the boat by the handles - they are easily cut with a pocket knife and cheap to replace. Run the cable through a scupper hole, and a thief would have to destroy the boat to steal it. If your boat doesn't have scupper holes, you can probably find someplace to thread the cable though, or make a suitable hole in the seat.

You can find a cable like this all set to go on Amazon for under 20 bucks. Where I used a steel ring, you could use a second padlock.


I recently installed these aluminum seat strap buckles. They are a direct replacement for the factory plastic buckles.

The swiveling part of the plastic buckles broke years ago, and I just tied the straps onto the remaining part, which is much beefier and held up fine, although it is now visibly bent. On new boats I automatically remove the swivel and never give it a chance to break.

But this loses the easy adjustability of the original buckle, and I think it is just a matter of time before the remaining plastic part breaks as well. The aluminum buckles restore that adjustability, and are much stronger and I don't worry about them at all. And they look great.

I found these on eBay while looking for replacement buckles to carry as spares. They are not that much more expensive than the plastic ones. I tied the old buckles inside the 'trunk' just in case.

Printed from njkayak.net